Katherine Parker Magyar
New Zealand, also known as the ‘real middle earth,’ may be the best place on the planet for an outdoors-loving traveler to escape. If the Galapagos Islands are all about the wildlife, then the North and South Islands of New Zealand are all about the wilderness said species inhabit. If we seem to be oversimplifying the nation’s appeal, trust us that the natural environment in New Zealand is supernatural in its beauty.
As an added bonus, the people of New Zealand (also known as Kiwis) are equally awe-inspiring in their friendliness. Which is perfect, considering you will spend quite some time navigating from place to place—and therefore relying occasionally on the kindness, aka directions, of strangers—though, in this situation, the journey truly is the destination. You will need to travel by car and by plane, the latter of which we suggest utilizing Air New Zealand‘s multi-island booking feature to save money (and time spent planning.)
Suggested Itinerary
Start your trip on the North Island, though not in Auckland, where you will first arrive. We’re saving this city for the very last. Head to Hawke’s Bay for some glamping and wine tasting along the nation’s gorgeous East Coast before flying to Wellington and the breathtakingly beautiful Kapiti Island. Bid adieu to the North Island for your next flight to Queenstown, and rent a car for the gorgeous drive to Wanaka (the Jackson Hole of New Zealand, for skiing and fishing fanatics). Before I continued with my suggested itinerary, permit me to take a detour and tell you more about Wanaka. I promise it’s worth it.
Wanaka – Must Stop!
This South Island paradise boasts skiing the majestic snow-capped mountains in the winter and swimming in the gorgeous, cerulean lakes in the summer. Don’t trust us? Then trust the ecstatic exclamations of such well-traveled (and therefore well-informed) luminaries like Oprah Winfrey, Reese Witherspoon, and Mindy Kaling. (All of whom resided in Wanaka during the filming of A Wrinkle in Time release in 2018.) From glamping in highland farms to hiking in the Southern Alps, read on for your ultimate guide to a wanderlust-filled getaway.
Where to Stay in Wanaka
With its ever-changing season landscape, there’s no wrong time to visit the lake-filled oasis of Wanaka. And, given the country’s dedication to conservation and sustainability, we recommend booking accommodations that are both eco-conscious and locally-owned. Thankfully, Criffel Station delivers on all of the requirements mentioned above—and boasts panoramic views of the entire region to boot. A station in New Zealand refers to a highland farm, and the Bell family has owned Criffel Station since the 1960s). The station also features an industry-leading deer farm—and the plethora of whimsical wildlife doubles as exceedingly charming neighbors.
Also charming? The secluded yet inviting accommodations provide the ultimate wilderness immersion while maintaining a delectable array of modern comforts. Book a glamping trip in the summertime, and opt for a cottage during the winter months. Of the latter, we recommend the Shearer’s Quarters for the ultimate New Zealand-appropriate abode. (Famously, there are more sheep than people in the country’s population.) Regardless of when you visit, the highlands’ heavenly fields remain a vibrant patchwork of brown and gold. Traveler’s tip: Rent a four-wheel-drive to traverse this luscious expanse of farmland safely. (More advice on navigating Wanaka by car will be shared a little later). And be sure to enjoy a gin-and-tonic while visiting the tiny overlook at the station’s peak. Other luxurious options include Wanaka Haven, Lime Tree Lodge, and Whare Kea Lodge & Chalet.
What To Do in Wanaka
When in Wanaka, travelers would be remiss not to explore the great outdoors. And there’s no shortage of excursions for the serious adventurer. Mountain climbers and hikers will be in altitude paradise exploring the Southern Alps surrounding Lake Wanaka—from the Minarets (whose tent-like spires inspired their name) to Mt Aspiring National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). The rolling green mountains will remind avid travelers of the Scottish Highlands, while other snow-capped peaks resemble the American Rockies, and the region’s beauty lies in this variety.
Outdoor-enthusiasts should consider hiking to the summit of Mount Roy to marvel at the beauty of the surrounding mountain ranges and crystal-blue lakes. Another breathtaking (and slightly less strenuous) option is to reserve a trip with WildWire Wanaka for the highest cable-waterfall climb on the planet. (For scale: You will be climbing the equivalent of the Eiffel Tower). The girl group TLC may have famously cautioned against chasing waterfalls in the 1990s, but it’s a must when visiting the South Island of New Zealand.
Now that we’ve covered the mountaintops, next up are the rivers and lakes. Just as Wanaka is a climber’s (and skier’s) paradise, it is also one of the best places in the world for fly-fishing—and, given the region’s visual similarity to Montana (another fly-fishing hotspot), this should come as no surprise. Additionally, travelers are advised to pull over along the road and explore the beautifully rugged coastline to discover your private paradise among the region’s secluded beaches. And don’t be afraid to venture off on your own—New Zealand is famously very safe for tourists.
Head out on the water with Wanaka Cruises and book a trip to Stevenson Island—the breathtaking vistas are best enjoyed with a beer or glass of wine on-board. The knowledgeable guides will illuminate the cultural history and unique ecosystems that inform New Zealand’s pristine landscape and wildlife. (Nearby Moana Island is not only predator-free but boasts a natural glacier—both of which are exceedingly rare.)
Finally, we recommend some bar-hopping and shopping when back in (relative) civilization while visiting the town. (The latter of which is highly recommended whenever there is a cricket or rugby game airing). For top-notch shopping, head to Untouched World—this elegant purveyor of sustainable Merino Wool has been frequented by two former presidents (Bill Clinton and Barack Obama), and one future king (Prince Charles, of course). Who needs Yelp reviews when the illustrious clientele are framed on the walls inside the shop?
Where to Eat and Drink
With its lakes and snow-capped peaks, American travelers may be reminded of Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Similar to Jackson Hole, Wanaka is a favorite not only among dedicated lovers of the outdoors but ritzy and discerning leisure travelers as well. (In particular, Wanaka is a favorite among urban residents of Christchurch). As such, the fine dining in Wanaka is varied and top-rate.
The best place to sample Wanaka’s foodie culture is the trendy Kika restaurant for tapas and shared plates. (Traveler’s tip: Order the pork belly and fried chicken). But the cuisine isn’t the institution’s only draw, as Kika boasts a delightfully inventive cocktail list, as well. We recommend the Coco Loco Martini—a drink delicious (and deadly) enough to endanger your ambitious plans for early-morning adventuring. (We suggest you order it nevertheless.) Travelers are also advised to check out Fudog for modern Asian cuisine, and Francesca’s Italian Kitchen for mouthwatering pasta.
And don’t forget the most important meal of the day: Breakfast is as popular in New Zealand as in neighboring Australia. Head to Beanie Café for some mouthwatering eggs benedict (and delicious coffee). The establishment is exceedingly popular amongst residents and tourists alike. If you’re lucky, maybe you’ll even spot an All Blacks rugby player (the team’s popularity in New Zealand is the equivalent of the NFL and MLB combined).
Lastly, the North Island may be famous for its Sauvignon Blanc, but there are also world-class wineries located on the South Island. Head over to Wanaka’s own Rippon Vineyard or the family-owned Maude’s tasting room for a sundowner in the late afternoon. Enjoy the nectar of New Zealand’s earth while marveling at the wonder of its fiery skies for an outing that will forever redefine happy hour. Cheers!
How to Get Around
If you prefer just to head straight to Wanaka, most international travelers arrive in Auckland. You should book a connecting domestic flight to the South Island via the airport in Queenstown. (To note: Air New Zealand currently offers multi-island flight itineraries, and it’s safe to assume airfare deals will become increasingly appealing for travelers post-COVID). Once you’ve landed in Queenstown, renting a car is the best option for travelers to maximize their time exploring the South Island’s breathtaking environs. Wanaka is merely an hour-and-a-half drive from bustling Queenstown, and the drive is breathtakingly beautiful—your vacation will have started the moment you get behind the wheel.
Would-be motorists should exercise caution, however, particularly on the first few days of the trip as they adjust to driving on the left side of the road. Additionally, a durable four-wheel-drive is recommended for navigating the mountainous terrain and winding country roads (particularly on the route from Wanaka to the West Coast.) Speaking of the West Coast, if Christchurch residents are known to vacation in Wanaka, then Wanaka residents are known to head to the West Coast’s wildly untamed glaciers and rainforests. Be sure to stop at the charmingly rugged Hard Antler Bar & Restaurant along the way—a mere preview of what’s to come. Though New Zealand boasts a dizzying array of natural environments and exquisite locales (all of which have been faithfully documented by New Zealand director Peter Jackson in the Lord of the Rings trilogy), you will find Wanaka challenging to beat. Cheers to your next adventure into the wild.
Suggested Itinerary Continued
I hope you enjoyed the detour to Wanaka. Let’s continue your expedition into the wild with a road trip to New Zealand’s West Coast, home to the Franz Josef Glacier, before returning to Auckland (and paying a visit to Piha Beach, which is truly a religious experience in its beauty, even for the most devout atheist.)
From the fjords to the Southern Alps to the changeable waters of the nation’s iconic beaches (alternating from gray to turquoise and back in a single afternoon), the beauty of New Zealand truly is otherworldly. You can’t help but stop and appreciate it. (Which is, perhaps, why it served as the backdrop for A Wrinkle in Time.)
In short, there is no better place for a traveler to visit (and no country worthier of the long-distance flight.) But, as with everything in a COVID-19 world, travel is fluid and subject to change as conditions on the ground warrant. We recommend Air New Zealand, but first check Air New Zealand’s International Travel Options and Requirements and work out those details well in advance of your planned arrival.
Get ready for the ultimate bucket list road trip, and be prepared to make friends along the way. You can’t help it—the hospitality of Kiwis is truly legendary. Though we’d advise you to lay low and not cause any trouble if the All Blacks are losing a match. Other than that, all you have to do is book your flights for your multi-time-zone journey to paradise.
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